Hey everyone, it’s Jake from the racing gear team – you know, the guy who ships out 5 point harnesses to weekend track warriors and pro drift teams alike. This week, I’ve been fielding so many DMs about storing these bad boys that I realized it’s not just “throw it in a box and forget it.” Let’s cut through the hype: storing your 5 point racing harness wrong is basically just signing up for a shorter lifespan, or worse, dangerous snap loads when you need it most. I’ve seen it happen first-hand – a customer threw theirs in the back of a trunk after a track day, crumpled under a toolbox, and when they pulled it out for the next event, the webbing was so stretched in spots it was hard to adjust. Total rookie move, and I don’t want that to be you. 5 Point Racing Harness
First off, let’s get one thing straight: a 5 point harness isn’t a seatbelt. Yeah, it’s made of tough stuff – high-tenacity polyester webbing, usually, with heavy-duty steel or aluminum buckles – but that doesn’t mean it’s indestructible. We build these to take constant, brutal force on track days, rally runs, and autocross sprints, but they don’t handle being abused when you’re not using them. Think of it like a pair of work boots – you wouldn’t stuff them in a muddy gym bag for a week and then expect them to hold up for a 12-hour shift, right? Same logic here.
Let’s start with the immediate post-use step, because that’s where most people mess up. You just finished a 3-hour track session, it’s 90 degrees outside, and you’re sweating through your racing suit and your harness. Your first instinct is probably to yank it off, toss it in the passenger seat, and bolt for the nearest burger joint. Stop. Hold up. If you leave a damp harness crumpled in a hot car or trunk, two bad things happen fast. First, mildew starts growing on the webbing – that white, fuzzy gunk that eats away at the weave and weakens it over time. Second, the hot, moist environment breaks down the UV inhibitors we put in the webbing to protect it from sun damage. So by next weekend, you’ve got a harness that’s got hidden mildew rot and is less resistant to the sun when you hang it in your garage.
So what do you actually do right after use? Step one: take it out of the car immediately, no exceptions. I don’t care if it’s pouring rain or you’re dying to get home – yank that harness, and lay it out somewhere flat to air out. If you’re at a track with a picnic table, perfect. If not, drape it over the hood of your car (but move it every 20 minutes so the paint doesn’t get scuffed, duh). The key here is to get all the nooks and crannies dry as fast as possible. Your lap belt, shoulder straps, and crotch strap – all those folds trap moisture. I usually just shake it out a few times, then pull each strap tight to let air circulate. Pro tip: if you’re extra sweaty, grab a paper towel (or a microfiber rag, even better) and wipe down the buckles and the adjustment sliders. Those metal parts can rust if left damp, and a rusty buckle won’t latch or release properly when you need it.
Now, once it’s dry (usually a couple hours, depending on humidity), it’s time to actually store it. A lot of people think stuffing it in a storage bin is fine, but no – that’s just a bigger crumple zone. If you fold it too tight, you’re putting constant stress on the webbing at the fold points, which can lead to permanent stretching or even fraying over time. Plus, if you have other stuff in the bin – like tools, spare tires, or old racing suits – those can rub against the webbing and cause abrasion. Not good when you’re counting on that webbing to hold you in during a crash.
The best way to store a 5 point harness, in my opinion, is to hang it up. I know, I know – you don’t have a fancy harness rack in your garage. No problem. I use a simple wall hook, the kind you’d hang a jacket on, that’s rated for at least 10 pounds (trust me, a harness weighs more than you think when it’s stretched out). Where do you hang it? Not in direct sunlight, first off. Sunlight (UV rays) are the #1 enemy of racing harness webbing over long-term storage. If you hang yours on a wall right next to a window that gets direct sun all day, you’re basically exposing it to the same UV damage it would take from 6 months of track days. I hang mine in my garage, on a wall that’s shaded by the house, and only gets indirect sun for a couple hours in the morning. That’s enough to keep it visible and accessible, no UV damage.
When you hang it, how do you do it right? Don’t just drape it over the hook like a Christmas ornament. Spread the straps out evenly. Let each shoulder strap hang straight down, lap belts too, and the crotch strap just dangles in the middle so it doesn’t get twisted. Twist is another big one – if you leave any part of the harness twisted, that puts uneven tension on the webbing, which weakens it over time. I like to give each strap a once-over before hanging, just to straighten out any kinks or twists from installation or use. If you want to be extra careful, you can loop the adjustment sliders loosely around the straps so they don’t slide down and bunch up. But don’t pull them super tight – you want a little slack so the webbing doesn’t get stretched.
What if you don’t have space to hang it? No judgment, some garages are tiny, or you share storage with roommates who hate racing gear. Then what? You need to fold it properly, and use the right kind of bag or bin. No plastic bins, please. Plastic traps moisture, even if you think it’s airtight. If you have to use a bin, get a fabric one, like a old laundry bag or a breathable storage sack. And when you fold it, do it loosely. Here’s the way I was taught by the lead tech at our factory: first, lay the harness out flat on a clean floor (no dirt, no oil, nothing abrasive). Then, fold each shoulder strap in half, lengthwise, so they’re shorter. Fold the lap belts in half too, and the crotch strap. Then, roll the whole thing up loosely, like a burrito, so there’s no tight folds anywhere. Don’t roll it super tight – that’s how you get that permanent crease we were talking about. Once it’s rolled, stick it in the fabric bag, label it with the year you bought it, and maybe even the last track event you used it at, so you can keep track of its lifespan.
Now, let’s talk about things you should never do when storing a harness, because these are the mistakes I see over and over. First, never store it with other greasy or dirty gear. If you throw your harness in the same bin as your oil-stained wrenches or your mud-caked racing boots, the oil and dirt will seep into the webbing, breaking down the fibers and making it more prone to fraying. Second, never store it in a hot, humid space – like a basement that floods, or a attic that gets 120 degrees in the summer. We mentioned this earlier, but it bears repeating – heat and moisture = mildew and webbing damage. Third, never remove the labels or tags that have the manufacturing date or the load rating. Those are critical if you ever need to replace it, or if you’re wondering how old your harness is (most racing harnesses have a lifespan of 5-7 years, even if you never use them, because the webbing breaks down over time). I know, those little tags get in the way when you’re adjusting the harness, but don’t cut them off.
Wait, another thing: if your harness gets wet at an event – like if you’re rallying in the rain, or you spill a soda on it – don’t just let it dry in the car. I once had a customer who went to a rally in the Pacific Northwest, his harness got soaked in 2 hours of pouring rain, and he left it in the trunk for 3 days while he drove back across the country. By the time he got home, his webbing had mildew so bad that it was discolored, and the load capacity dropped by almost 20%. He ended up having to buy a new one, and that’s money he didn’t need to spend. So if it gets wet, stop and air it out right then. Even a quick 30-minute stretch in the sun will make a huge difference.
Also, let’s address a question I get all the time: can I put my harness in the washing machine? Short answer: no. Most washing machines are way too rough, the agitator will fray the webbing, and the detergent can leave residue that breaks down the fibers. If your harness is really dirty – like covered in mud from off-roading, or sweat and debris – wipe it down with a mild soap and a damp cloth, then air it out. Never use harsh chemicals, bleach, or pressure washers. Pressure washers are a terrible idea – the high pressure can cut into the webbing, and force water into the buckles, which can cause rust. I’ve seen a buckle crack because someone pressure washed their harness, and that’s a safety hazard you just don’t need.
Now, why does all this matter anyway? Let’s be real, storing your harness right isn’t just about keeping it looking good – it’s about keeping you safe. I mentioned earlier that these webbing materials break down over time, and improper storage speeds that up. If you have a harness that’s got hidden mildew rot, or stretched webbing from being crumpled, it might not hold you in place during a crash, or it might even snap. That’s not a risk I want any of our customers taking. At the end of the day, you trust our harnesses to keep you safe when you’re pushing your car to the limit on track. You owe it to yourself to take care of that harness when you’re not using it.
If you’re new to the racing scene, or if you’ve been storing your harness wrong for years, don’t stress. It’s an easy habit to fix. Start with the next track day: when you get done, grab that harness, lay it out, air it out, and hang it up. No more cramming it in the back seat. Even if you only have a small hook in your garage, that’s better than nothing.
And hey, if you’re in the market for a new 5 point harness, or you have questions about the right storage tips for your specific setup (like if you have a SFI-rated harness for drag racing, or an FIA-approved one for rally), hit me up. We know our stuff when it comes to racing gear, and we’re always here to help. Don’t wait until your next event to realize you stored your harness wrong – take care of it now, and it’ll take care of you on track.
Now, quick note before I sign off: if you need to order a replacement harness, or want to ask about our different models for road courses, off-road, or drifting, just reach out to our team. We’re here to make sure your gear is safe and ready to go whenever you are.
Webbing Cam Buckle References
Society of Automotive Engineers. (2020). SFI Specification 16.1: Performance Requirements for Racing Harness Assemblies. SFI Global.
Fédération Internationale de l’Automobile. (2021). FIA Standard 8853-2016: Racing Harnesses for Driver Restraint Systems. FIA Sport.
Racing Industry Gear Association. (2022). Best Practices for Storage and Maintenance of Motorsport Safety Equipment. RIGA Publications.
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